Auto belay reddit. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage.
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Auto belay reddit I trust my rope and harness won't break, so I trust the auto belay to lower me slowly. Yeah, every climbing gym in the world uses auto belays these days and there have been zero issues. I don't say that the grigri is bad because you can bypass the cam, I say that you need to use it correctly to be safe. I like that I can have 2 hands on the brake strand when lowering someone heavier through just a single carabiner. And yes we are scared of falling. On top of that the damn safety line / rope collides with your face every time it pulls tight. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. I agree. While each auto belay manufacturer adjusts the tension of their retraction springs to slightly (though noticeable) different specifications, the major differentiator is found in the auto belay braking system. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber and ensure that they do not Feb 22, 2020 · The TRUBLUE auto belay system uses magnetic braking and has a minimum/maximum weight of 22 and 330 lbs respectively. I like that I can keep the belay super tight, stay right under the clip, and never shortrope my climber. I trust auto belays more than any human belayer. The auto-belay itself is safer than the webbing and rope that comprise the rest of the system. Personally, I prefer the ATC for a heavier climber. You are far more likely to die driving your car anywhere than you are to die from the auto belay. That said I don't trust those auto belay systems for even light people. This still doesn't explain one thing to me. She was using the auto belay, didn't hook in, and fell. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. I always went with someone who can belay… We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Once someone has been belay certified on top rope and auto belay, staff do not check every person once they leave the ground… that would be intense and I guarantee that climbers would hate it. That’s always in the back of my mind when climbing so I double check everything. It uses a combination of pressurized air and hydraulic fluid (oil) to create a gradual descent for climbers (as hydraulic fluid is incompressible, slowing the descent). I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. Although the frequency of auto-belay-related incidents is relatively low (compared to the frequency of auto-belay usage without incidents) — the severity of these incidents has caused many gym managers and owners to become extremely concerned. I got tired of the auto-belay pulling up on my harness while resting and I clipped the auto-clip to a rope next to me (instead walking a couple feet and clipping it to the tent). This gym also has triangular tarps covering the lower portion of the routes that hook the auto belay, you usually cant start without the tarp being an obstacle/hooking in. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. As you climb you can feel the pull bouncing you up. 1. Belaying is one of the most important skills to have in climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. 31 votes, 31 comments. EDIT: yes, it does look like this was a fixed gear failure somewhere in the system, but that's the exception, not the rule, and I'll be stunned if it was the auto-belay itself and not rope, webbing, lanyard, or metal (bolts, caribiners, etc). Moving parts I can't see or inspect. . For very unfortunate reason I will have to start climbing alone now. Reasons for not liking auto belays. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. A newbie here. 368 votes, 309 comments. It is possible to out-climb a TRUBLUE auto belay due to the lag caused by the magnets trying to recoil the slack, but they are one of the most popular auto belay systems on the market today. Rather, the staff walk around and pay attention to belay technique, watch the cameras etc to make sure everyone is doing things properly. I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. There has been a lot of chatter about auto-belays in recent months, both in the media and behind closed doors. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. The fact that this guy basically state as much that he ignored all the warning signs, and that the auto belay and connecting carabiner were working properly. It actually makes the climb easier as you are effectively 1kg lighter. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. Jan 15, 2024 · Photo: CityROCK. I got intensely focused on my next Pioneering the auto belay industry, the hydraulic system works by placing a hydraulic cylinder behind a climbing wall with the belay line going over the wall. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. When you are on auto belay, that thing pulls on you like the worst top rope belayer ever. There are two major braking technologies found in the vast majority of modern auto belays: Friction braking; Magnetic braking My gym has "tents" at the bottom of auto-belays. I was doing a route and having lifted weights and taking long breaks in between. I learned to lead belay before current iterations of the Grigri were available. I wasn’t a huge fan. Though, intentionally bypassing the auto belay tension by pulling out slack is using it different than intended. I don't like auto belays, but they are pretty well engineered so I treat them similar to other gear. The owner even states he rather would go to trial and fight that it was NOT negligence rather than just settle. dycat hsgu hsdi kvsuvn pepttm ktiunqb oioeoi vocs vrtpa atmtnse
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